PC Build Thread

seth

aa
May 31, 2013
1,019
851
So I sold my iMac for $1,600 and here's the final build I just bought:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.75 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Thermaltake POSEIDON Z Wired Gaming Keyboard ($69.99 @ Directron)
Mouse: SteelSeries Rival Wired Optical Mouse ($44.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1421.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-02 17:02 EST-0500

I know you said I shouldn't go with the Xeon, Donut, but I decided to do it to save myself some money by not buying a CPU cooler, being able to get a cheaper motherboard and still get the benefits of hyperthreading without having to get an i7. It can't overclock, but that's the only drawback.

Maybe I should have expected this, but the final cost was actually $1,528 because PCPartsPicker doesn't do what it says it does: calculate shipping or tax. Really pisses me off actually.
 
Last edited:

seth

aa
May 31, 2013
1,019
851
It does say calculate shipping or tax where possible.

Well then it didn't count for all the parts that didn't have free shipping or no taxes. But it's okay, I should have been careful enough to check for myself, so the fault is mine in the end.
 

DonutVikingChap

L5: Dapper Member
Mar 15, 2013
233
139
Okay, I figured I might as well post this here since it's kinda related to buying PC builds, and should hopefully be useful information for anyone who is. Basically, this is a guide to what computer mouse you should buy.

So, my beloved Deathadder 2013 finally decided to break on me right before New Year (the left click switch broke) so I did a whole bunch of research on different mice's sensors and other properties to find out what new mouse to buy. The mouse I ended up going with was the Logitech G502 Proteus Core, since it has all the features I want and one of the best sensors on the market. It was a hard choice between it and the Mionix Naos 7000, but I went for the G502 since it was available in a nearby store.

I like to be very competitive when playing games, and making sure to reduce any kind of bottlenecks as much as possible that would give me a disadvantage against other players, so choosing a good mouse is obviously very important to me. During my search for the strongest contenders, I also found a whole bunch of new mice that I hadn't seen or noticed before, so I thought it'd be great to tell anyone who's interested in buying a new mouse about them and their strengths/weaknesses in this thread so that everyone has a reference when choosing a mouse for their new builds in the future. :)

One of the most important features of a mouse is obviously the sensor it uses, since that's what determines how accurate and consistent you're going to be with it. Basically, what you want to look for is a mouse with a "perfect"/"flawless" sensor (which I explained in a post in another thread). There are plenty of these, and there are lists you can find online of a bunch of different popular mice with "perfect" sensors (This is the one I used. It's pretty advanced, but if you want to get more in-depth it's a very good read). What I found was basically that there are 4 different optical sensors that people generally consider to be the best. These are the Pixart PMW 3366 (Logitech G502), the Avago ANDS/Pixart PMW 3310, the Avago ANDS s3988 (Deathadder 2013) and the Avago ANDS 3090. (Pixart is just Avago's new name.) But one very important thing to note is that even when mice use the same sensor, that does not mean they have identical tracking characteristics. It depends on the specific manufacturer's implementation. Liftoff distance may vary, for example.



So, here are some examples of mice with these sensors that I personally found the most interesting and would recommend to most people:

1. Logitech G502 (PMW 3366)
Pros: Arguably the best sensor, lots of programmable buttons, scroll wheel with a toggleable free-spin mode, adjustable weight, tilting scroll wheel, good software, good for palm/claw-grip users, rubber sides.
Cons: Slightly heavier than most mice, even without any of the included weights. (This is actually pretty important, most professional gamers want as light a mouse as possible for quick movements. I personally don't find it too heavy (which is the reason why I bought it after trying it out at the store), but it is noticeably heavier than my old Deathadder.)

2. Razer Deathadder 2013/Chroma (ANDS s3988)
Pros: Legendary gaming mouse, simple shape - very comfortable for right-handed palm/claw-grip users, rubber sides, fairly lightweight, good software (though some people really dislike Synapse since it's basically required to use the mouse properly).
Neutral: Big
Cons: Build quality of the side buttons is questionable, few buttons, scroll wheel is hard to press.

3. Mionix Naos 7000 (ANDS 3310)
Pros: Very ergonomic for right-handed palm-grip users, fairly lightweight, good software.
Cons: The 3310 sensor is apparently a bit picky with surfaces but as long as you have at least a decent cloth mat you'll be fine.

4. Mionix Avior 7000 (ANDS 3310)
Pros: Ambidextrous, good for claw/fingertip-grip users, fairly lightweight, good software.
Cons: The 3310 sensor is apparently a bit picky with surfaces but as long as you have at least a decent cloth mat you'll be fine.

5. Corsair M45 (PMW 3310)
Pros: Unique shape, adjustable weight, lightweight without the included weights, good software.
Cons: Some people complain about the scroll wheel, the 3310 sensor is apparently a bit picky with surfaces but as long as you have at least a decent cloth mat you'll be fine.

6. Steelseries Rival (ANDS 3310)
Pros: Simple comfortable shape (kinda similar to the Deathadder), rubber sides, good software
Cons: Few buttons, Even slightly heavier than the G502.

This is by no means a complete list of good mice, but they are definitely some of the best, and it should serve well as a guideline for anyone who needs to pick a mouse for their new build. The most important general tip I can give is just to never buy a mouse with a laser sensor (it should be "optical").



While I'm at it, here are some other useful guidelines for using your mouse optimally:

1. High maximum DPI numbers is just a marketing trick, you should always put your DPI pretty low (400-1800 is usually recommended for most sensors) to avoid interpolation or other issues, unless you have a very specific usage scenario where you need a high DPI.

2. Getting used to turning off mouse acceleration will likely greatly benefit you in the long run, since it helps with consistency and muscle memory. To do this, uncheck the "Enhance pointer precision" option in your Windows mouse settings and any other acceleration option anywhere else (like in your mouse software). Also, enable "Raw input" in-game.

3. Your pointer speed should always be set to 6/11 (default, in the middle) in your Windows mouse settings since there are some really stupid problems with going lower/higher that make your mouse skip frames and stuff. If you want a higher/lower sensitivity, you should compensate with the DPI setting in your mouse software instead, or the in-game sensitivity slider.



I hope this will be useful to some people. :D
 

Kube

Not the correct way to make lasagna
aa
Aug 31, 2014
1,342
1,849
Thanks for the extremely helpful post, DonutVikingChap! It's funny how things loop around like this.
 

Crash

func_nerd
aa
Mar 1, 2010
3,319
5,500
Revised my build a bit using some suggestions from here and elsewhere. Biggest being removal of my second video card, which I realized wasn't necessary at all. I was under the false impression that I needed it to run more than two monitors. This card has more than enough outputs for what I wanted to do.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($123.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($128.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($347.99 @ Directron)
Case: NZXT H440 (Orange/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($69.98 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1179.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-10 23:57 EST-0500


Buuut, I have no idea what the hell to do about memory at this point, I'm looking for at least 16Gb, more preferred, but I don't want to go nuts on cost. Any suggestions on this?
 

DonutVikingChap

L5: Dapper Member
Mar 15, 2013
233
139
Revised my build a bit using some suggestions from here and elsewhere. Biggest being removal of my second video card, which I realized wasn't necessary at all. I was under the false impression that I needed it to run more than two monitors. This card has more than enough outputs for what I wanted to do.

Buuut, I have no idea what the hell to do about memory at this point, I'm looking for at least 16Gb, more preferred, but I don't want to go nuts on cost. Any suggestions on this?

Ah, good thing you realized that. I know some other people who also used to think you needed more than on card to run multiple monitors, and that did actually use to be the case many years ago. But the technology has evolved to the point today where even integrated graphics can run triple monitors. :p

As for the memory, 16GB should probably be fine. I have 16 in my PC, and I've never run into any problems when using Adobe Premiere or Hammer with many other programs running at the same time. (But I usually don't have more than 20 Chrome tabs open, I guess.) I can only imagine 32GB being beneficial if you run really heavy programs while having 100 Chrome tabs or something crazy like that open at the same time, or if you want to make a RAMDisk. Anyway, it's for you to decide. Just pick the cheapest kit you can find with CL9 or lower latency, 1.5V or lower voltage and 1600MHz or higher clock speed from a reputable manufacturer. (You may want at least 1866MHz with this budget.)

Anyway, the only other thing I have to point out is that I think the Supernova NEX and the Supernova G2 are not the same thing, and the Supernova G2 is the only one I've seen get excellent reviews.
Other than that, good luck with this awesome build!
 

iiboharz

eternally tired
aa
Nov 5, 2014
857
1,291
Though I'm not building a PC right now I thought I might as well post my build here.

I built it in December 2012.

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600k
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
GPU: Palit Nvidia GeForce 670 Jetstream
Storage:
- Western Digital Black 1TB
- Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB)
Motherboard: AsRock Z77 Extreme6 (never buying AsRock ever again)
PSU: Corsair TX750
Sound card: Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD

Other things-
Case: Antec Three Hundred Two
Optical drive: Sony AD-7280S-0B
Other: Icy Box IB-864 Front Panel

---

The build has served me well enough for the past two years but I'm looking into upgrading some components soon, namely the GPU and also possibly adding on some additional hard disks.
 

iiboharz

eternally tired
aa
Nov 5, 2014
857
1,291
I'm planning on building a computer, I have a rough idea on the parts, I would appreciate suggestions for cheaper/better.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheCodingEthan/saved/3BNWGX

Unless you have a specific use for a sound card I'mma say you can safely cut that out of your build as the on-board audio of your motherboard will typically suffice.

Also remove the ethernet adapter as the motherboard you've chosen already has ethernet support.

If you really wanted to cut down on price you could get an older generation CPU.

Unless you really need four monitors you could probably cut one or two out of the equation too.

To top it off, unless you plan on overclocking you could cut out getting a CPU cooler altogether and use what comes with your CPU or get a cheaper one.
 

Coding Ethan

L2: Junior Member
Oct 12, 2014
93
109
Unless you have a specific use for a sound card I'mma say you can safely cut that out of your build as the on-board audio of your motherboard will typically suffice.

Also remove the ethernet adapter as the motherboard you've chosen already has ethernet support.

If you really wanted to cut down on price you could get an older generation CPU.

Unless you really need four monitors you could probably cut one or two out of the equation too.

To top it off, unless you plan on overclocking you could cut out getting a CPU cooler altogether and use what comes with your CPU or get a cheaper one.

I have made the changes you have proposed, instead of using new monitors I have decided to use the ones I currently have, my build is now only £900 ish which is quite an improvement.
 

DonutVikingChap

L5: Dapper Member
Mar 15, 2013
233
139
I'm planning on building a computer, I have a rough idea on the parts, I would appreciate suggestions for cheaper/better.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheCodingEthan/saved/3BNWGX

Super high-end processor, RAM and motherboard but a cheap 430W power supply and two crappy graphics cards?

Sorry, but I can't really help you unless you say what you'll be using the computer for, or the reasoning behind these part choices, because right now I can't make a lot of sense of it.

(By the way, that CPU doesn't come with a stock cooler.)
 

Crash

func_nerd
aa
Mar 1, 2010
3,319
5,500
So this is my current plan for my new rig as of now.

Already picked up my new mouse since I literally wore out my current one with the 72hr contest.

Some things I'm not 100% sure on:

CPU: Do I really need an i7? Could I perhaps go for an i5 instead and maybe get to bump something up elsewhere with the savings? Is there going to be much of a dramatic difference to warrant the cost?

Motherboard: I want something easy to overclock with. My current MSI board has OC Genie built right into the card, I literally just press a button in and boot it up and it's overclocked. Not sure how this all works these days.

Monitor: I just want something with a low response rate and bigger than 22". Anything cheaper out there?

Storage: I am sitting on a Intel 120Gb x25-M SSD currently that I was going to pull out of my current machine, is it worth it to pick up something more current? Is there a big difference in performance? I'm seeing a few 240Gb SSD's sitting around the $80 price range. This something worth looking into for the extra room on my primary drive?

PSU: 750W overkill for this build?
 

iiboharz

eternally tired
aa
Nov 5, 2014
857
1,291
So this is my current plan for my new rig as of now.

Already picked up my new mouse since I literally wore out my current one with the 72hr contest.

Some things I'm not 100% sure on:

CPU: Do I really need an i7? Could I perhaps go for an i5 instead and maybe get to bump something up elsewhere with the savings? Is there going to be much of a dramatic difference to warrant the cost?

Motherboard: I want something easy to overclock with. My current MSI board has OC Genie built right into the card, I literally just press a button in and boot it up and it's overclocked. Not sure how this all works these days.

Monitor: I just want something with a low response rate and bigger than 22". Anything cheaper out there?

Storage: I am sitting on a Intel 120Gb x25-M SSD currently that I was going to pull out of my current machine, is it worth it to pick up something more current? Is there a big difference in performance? I'm seeing a few 240Gb SSD's sitting around the $80 price range. This something worth looking into for the extra room on my primary drive?

PSU: 750W overkill for this build?

Downgrade to maybe a 500W or 600W PSU.

I would recycle the old SSD unless there's something wrong with it.

I think most motherboards these days have some super fancy + easy method of overclocking, if you're not curious google around whatever motherboard you chose.

I currently have an AsRock Z77 Extreme6 (a bit dated by these days) and it has a pretty nice overclocking thingy built into the boot setup thingy.

I suppose you could downgrade to an i5 but I would stay with the i7 since it doesn't hurt to have more processing power especially when you're Crash, making videos, compiling maps etc, you gotta have all the power you can get homeslice!

Someone else will have to help with the monitor query since I suck balls at finding monitors.
 

iiboharz

eternally tired
aa
Nov 5, 2014
857
1,291
Only problem with my current SSD is that it's a struggle to keep it not-full, as I like to have my Steam/ TF2 folder on it for obvious reasons.

Well if you're having storage problems with it then you should definitely upgrade.
 

Coding Ethan

L2: Junior Member
Oct 12, 2014
93
109
Super high-end processor, RAM and motherboard but a cheap 430W power supply and two crappy graphics cards?

Sorry, but I can't really help you unless you say what you'll be using the computer for, or the reasoning behind these part choices, because right now I can't make a lot of sense of it.

(By the way, that CPU doesn't come with a stock cooler.)

The computer's primary usage would be gaming and mapping, the reason behind the two crappy graphics cards is that I needed the ports in a earlier build (for four monitors) but now I'm only really looking at a 2/3 monitor setup, I had not changed the Graphics card(s) as I don't have any real knowledge on cost efficient and high quality graphics cards.

My budget right now is around £1000 which is around $1504.86 according to Google.com.
 

iiboharz

eternally tired
aa
Nov 5, 2014
857
1,291
The computer's primary usage would be gaming and mapping, the reason behind the two crappy graphics cards is that I needed the ports in a earlier build (for four monitors) but now I'm only really looking at a 2/3 monitor setup, I had not changed the Graphics card(s) as I don't have any real knowledge on cost efficient and high quality graphics cards.

My budget right now is around £1000 which is around $1504.86 according to Google.com.

I'll tell you right away that you should go for an NVIDIA card instead of an AMD.