displacement stone walls?

spot_the_spy

spot_the_spy

L1: Registered
May 18, 2010
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Hi, I was just wondering if anybody could help me make some nice looking displacement walls? I displace the blocks i use for the walls and add noise to them but that makes sewing them nicely impossible.

if anybody could help it would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
spot_the_spy

spot_the_spy

L1: Registered
May 18, 2010
38
0
Fr0Z3n said:
You should only select the faces of the wall that are showing, and displace that, not the whole block.

Things will sew if they the same length on the edge that is touching, and the power of the vertices is at a ration of 1:1, 1:2 and 1;4.
Click to expand...

I'm doing that already, put your post gave me a different idea about what I should do thanks.
 
grazr

grazr

Old Man Mutant Ninja Turtle
aa
Mar 4, 2008
5,441
3,814
It's better not to add noise, it's kinda of a cheap feature, just like the subdivide tool; a shortcut that doesn't do the job properly, but quickly. Using either will still require a lot of manual tweaking to make it look nice/right.

I find it better to just do it manually from the beginning, it takes a little more time, but this is practical project just like any other art and design, so it's a given. Anyway, tweaking manually allows you to stick to the grid so that things never get so complicated you can't work your way back if you feel the need to. You just gotta get used to displacing faces on all 3 axis, also try reducing the affect radius (green wireframe ball) to 1 for precise manipulation and keep the manipulation strength to 2, 4, 8 etc to keep adjustments aligned to the Hammer grid along with the standard geometry.
 
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spot_the_spy

spot_the_spy

L1: Registered
May 18, 2010
38
0
grazr said:
It's better not to add noise, it's kinda of a cheap feature, just like the subdivide tool; a shortcut that doesn't do the job properly, but quickly. Using either will still require a lot of manual tweaking to make it look nice/right.

I find it better to just do it manually from the beginning, it takes a little more time, but this is practical project just like any other art and design, so it's a given. Anyway, tweaking manually allows you to stick to the grid so that things never get so complicated you can't work your way back if you feel the need to. You just gotta get used to displacing faces on all 3 axis, also try reducing the affect radius (green wireframe ball) to 1 for precise manipulation and keep the manipulation strength to 2, 4, 8 etc to keep adjustments aligned to the Hammer grid along with the standard geometry.
Click to expand...

are you talking about using the paint geometry tool? and also i was wondering, is it okay for the displacements to clip?
 
Pocket

Pocket

Half a Lambert is better than one.
aa
Nov 14, 2009
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2,580
spot_the_spy said:
are you talking about using the paint geometry tool? and also i was wondering, is it okay for the displacements to clip?
Click to expand...

Clip what? Each other?
 
grazr

grazr

Old Man Mutant Ninja Turtle
aa
Mar 4, 2008
5,441
3,814
Just be sure not to do it too much. Whilst it's usually fine, doing it too much complicates the physics calculation part of the compile and sometimes it can prevent your map from compiling properly if it's over complicated. Unaligned displacements also look strange because the shadows are vertex based and will also end up not aligning. You get shadows bleeding through at the displacement edges/seems. But it all depends on how happy you are with the result given the level you are at in learning Hammer. Highly skilled users will probably be more methodical, but there's no strict way of doing something. What works, works, but the results do vary.

...and yes, i was talking about the 2 slide bars at the bottom of the texture panel. "spacial" and "distance" i think they are named.
 
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